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"It is Not a Question of Wanting. The Throne is Mine..."
Hey there, Westerosi! Today, we'll be taking on a character that I haven't gotten a TON of requests for, but the requests themselves have been INTENSE (I'm looking at you, Mark). Today, we're looking at the iron Baratheon brother: Stannis Baratheon.
He's one of two Commander options you get in the Baratheon Starter Set, so I figured, we should probably get those guys ready for battle.
DISCLAIMER: The publication of this tutorial should not be taken as an endorsement of Stannis Baratheon as King of the Seven Kingdoms. Mike Meeple remains completely neutral of political activities in Westeros, like the Citadel... Or Switzerland!
1. Gameplan, Prep, and Prime
So, instead of drawing inspiration from Stephen Dillane's AMAZING performance, I'm going to be staying fairly close to the in game art.
Pretty basic, but Stannis's appearance on the HBO series is rather forgettable.
Here are the paints I'll be using today:
Vallejo
German Grey, Dark Sand, Flat Earth, Chocolate Brown, Hull Red, White, Basic Skin Tone, Old Gold, Gunmetal Grey
Army Painter
Handmade Modern
Slate (Standard Grey)
I've also gone ahead and primed Stannis out in black with Army Painter's Matt Black spray on primer. This will help with some of the darker tones around his mouth and jaw to help him look a little more grizzled without us having to really do ANYTHING.
Once it's dry, it's time for basecoats.
2. Basecoats
This is my obligatory reminder for you to thin your paints with equal parts water, unless I specifically tell you otherwise.
So, the first thing you'll do is actually painting the rock he's standing on using your slate or standard grey. Once that's dry, you'll want to drybrush a little white on there to finish it off before moving onto Stannis himself.
For Stannis, grab your hull red and paint his doublet. Make sure you get the inside and outside of his collar as well, and be sure that you're painting all of the grooves in his doublet.
From there, grab your basic skin tone and paint the face, neck, and hands of the model. You'll be painting over black, so make sure that you use multiple coats to ensure the application is smooth, remembering to make sure that it's completely dry before moving onto the next coat.
After that, you'll want to take your german grey and paint the cape, sleeves, and the skirt underneath the doublet.
Now take your gunmetal grey, unthinned, and paint his shoulder and knee armor.
After that you can take your chocolate brown and paint the hair. I've shown you an angle for how you can paint the comb over hairstyle easily. Simply paint a few lines over the head that you had previously painted with your basic skin tone.
You'll also use chocolate brown to paint the boots and goatee. For the goatee, make sure you use your smallest brush, and don't be afraid to touch up with the skin tone if you make a mistake.
Next, take your old gold, unthinned, and paint all the gold portions of the model. This includes the pommel and hilt of the sword, the trim of the belt/belt buckle, the two gold buckles securing the cape to the doublet in the front, the trim near the wrists on the sleeves, the doublet buttons and trim of the collar.
If you get confused about what should and shouldn't be gold, make sure you reference the in game art.
You'll also want to paint all of the trim of the cape itself as well. For the trim, simply drag the side of your brush along the edge of the cape, or the whatever raised detail you're painting, and call it a day.
The last thing we'll be basecoating will be the blade of the sword and the metal accents of the shoulder armor using our plate mail metal unthinned.
Once that's dry, it's time for shades!
3. Shading
This is it. This is all we're using today. Flesh Wash by The Army Painter and Nuln Oil by Citadel.
Start off with a thin layer of flesh wash over Stannis's head, neck, and hands.
After that, apply a thin layer of nuln oil to everything else, including the rock.
Once it's all dry, it's time for highlights.
Start off with a thin layer of flesh wash over Stannis's head, neck, and hands.
After that, apply a thin layer of nuln oil to everything else, including the rock.
Once it's all dry, it's time for highlights.
4. Highlights and Finishing Touches
We're going to start with highlighting the face and hands with our basic skin tone. Paint the forehead, nose, cheekbones. You could also paint the lips if you really want to contrast the goatee. You'll also want to repaint/highlight any of the bits of his head that are peaking through his comb over.
For the hands, try to paint each individual knuckle and finger, avoiding the recesses of the model where the shade is the darkest.
Next, we'll mix together one part dark sand and one part hull red and do a little highlighting of the doublet. Follow the yellow colored portions of the image above if you're unsure where to place them.
It should turn out looking something like this.
After that, we'll move onto the cape. Mix together one part german grey and one part white and highlight the cape. You can see fairly clearly where I've placed the highlights, but it's essentially where the cape billows outward.
You'll also use this same mix to highlight the top of the sleeves and any of the folds, as seen above.
Then, mix together one part flat earth and one part chocolate brown and highlight the boots. You can use the example above, following the portions that are yellow to get an idea of where to place the highlights.
You'll also want to use this color to add highlights to the hair, and clean up the comb over. Simply look at the model from the top down and paint what you see.
You'll also use this color to paint the eyebrows if you like. In addition, to finish off the model, you can take a bit of white and paint two dots on either side of the goatee to really make it pop and give it that salt and pepper beard look.
5. War for the Throne!
That's it, guys! Hit him with your matt spray, base him however you like and get that sucker on the battlefield (Stag Knights, maybe?).
Remember that this tutorial, along with all of my tutorials on how to paint A Song of Ice and Fire can be found on my blog for future reference, and if you found this tutorial helpful, I humbly ask that you consider becoming a Patron. It's only $1 a month, and it truly helps me to deliver quality content to you on a regular basis.
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